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When I put up the gages on Bear and Jone's Creek, the 'elders' cried foul and bitched - for about a week. As soon as they got used to it they loved it too. Next couple floods, as the rocks, marked trees, and river-banks we had used in the past got moved we appreciated these gages even more. By the time I put up Mill Creek and Mann's Creek BJ and I were really confident it was the right thing to do - and it was.
While the best boaters are fine with 'high' or 'low' and the locals all know what to expect just by the moss-line at the put-in, a stick / painted gage comes in handy for those pushing their limits or unfamiliar with the run.
It also allows you to push the high and low ends of the spectrum to the absolute limit - because you KNOW how it compares to the other runs in your experience (ie "I ran it at 3' and it was fine, while at 4' we wallked it all). Distance up your paddle blade changed with each new paddle model.
Trust me - a real gage is a real benefit.
Key points:
Gages should be in an eddy/pool out of the current (even at flood) and facing downstream (less surges and splashes)
The narrower the location, the more differentiation of flow (ie a wide spot may only change 1'' while a narrow one will change 6'' at the same levels)
DO IT RIGHT the first time!!! There will be 10x more fight about changing a poorly reading gage in disrepair than putting one in in the first place. I was bummed my Jones Creek gage got replaced, but the new one is readable with less hike and has inches instead of just 6'' increments - BIG difference.
Tony Robinson set a new standard in the SE, and I REALLY appreciate it!
Clay
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Nate - trust me, you'll love it - though YOU don't need it New 
BoaterTalk 
