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Just got out of the water from a sunrise session with Rick Starr. Killer sunrise, glassy and warm. Just a few guys out and tons of BIG waves. Swell was at 13.6 feet at about 17secs. at 6am. Outside sets were easily double overhead + standing up. Just ridiculously beautiful. Long, powerful rides along huge walls and nuclear speeds. Ahhhhhh, to live here! |
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